East Cape and the furthest East Dunny (long-drop) in the World
The decision to have a cabin was justified, overnight it started to rain cats and dogs and we got soaked just packing the camper. We retraced a few kilometres and took the 21 km gravel road down to East Cape Lighthouse but the cloud base was so low that we could not see anything and it was not sensible to climb up into cloud to try to reach the Lighthouse which is 136 meters above sea level. We did however visit The furthest East Dunny (long-drop) in the World. The whole journey round East Cape was characterised by slipping in and out of cloud so - we missed all the magnificent views we had seen last time. The camp site we had used at Maraehako still exists but seemed to have gained some informal horse riding and kayaking - it is owned and run by a Maori trust. It looked as if it was primarily used by regulars and still only costs $5 a night.
The rain became intermittent in the afternoon and we stopped a few kilometres short of Opotiki at the Tirohangi Beach Motor Camp - we had been attracted by an advert with aerial view showing it to have well spaced and sheltered sites almost on a calm sandy beach. We were fortunate as they had just had a cancellation for a tourist cabin - full cooking, fridge, loo and shower plus double bed within a stones throw of the beach for $40. The sea was a bit rough still for swimming but there were a lot of fishermen surf casting. It looks a good place for either a tent or cabin and is strategically placed at the start of the East Coast Highway. It also has a good and surprisingly cheap store at the entry so extended stays would be practical. One for the list of places to return to.
If you do go round the Pacific Coast Highway make sure you keep full of petrol - it is nearly 400 kms including diverting to the East Cape Lighthouse. Petrol stations very are infrequent and you pay a 25% premium - We paid $1.00 instead of the usual 79.9 cents a litre at Te Aroroa at the single pump opposite the store and were very glad to fill up. The whole area also has no mobile coverage (with Bell South anyway). We sent the last report at Gisborne and that was the only place we have seen a signal for the 4 days since Napier! I sat in the Pak'N Save car park with the computer whilst Pauline did the shopping.